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How to take photos in burst mode, without vibration?
At what shutter speeds is mirror lock-up worthwhile?How to take photos of a solar eclipse without damaging one's eyes or camera?How can I take a clear picture of an object which is in relative motion opposite to my motion?EOS-1v not compatible with non EF, manual lenses?How to take Black and White photos without pure black?How can I avoid camera shake while using Canon 6D's Auto Exposure Bracketing?Did shooting in burst mode wear out my shutter?How to take sharper photosHow to take astrophotographs with terrestrial objects in frameHow can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?How to take photos of planets with smartphone?
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I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?
canon astrophotography motion-blur
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?
canon astrophotography motion-blur
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
What shutter speeds are you using?
– Hueco
9 hours ago
Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.
– Gern Blanston
9 hours ago
I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
add a comment |
I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?
canon astrophotography motion-blur
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?
canon astrophotography motion-blur
canon astrophotography motion-blur
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
asked 10 hours ago
vsisvsis
133
133
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
What shutter speeds are you using?
– Hueco
9 hours ago
Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.
– Gern Blanston
9 hours ago
I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
add a comment |
1
What shutter speeds are you using?
– Hueco
9 hours ago
Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.
– Gern Blanston
9 hours ago
I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
1
What shutter speeds are you using?
– Hueco
9 hours ago
What shutter speeds are you using?
– Hueco
9 hours ago
Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.
– Gern Blanston
9 hours ago
Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.
– Gern Blanston
9 hours ago
I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.
In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.
Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:
Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:
- Use single shot mode
- Use Mirror Lock Up
- Have a rock solid tripod
- Use a remote shutter release
- Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds
- Release the shutter to take the shot
If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
|
show 13 more comments
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
2
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oldest
votes
In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.
In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.
Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:
Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.
In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.
Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:
Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.
In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.
Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:
Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.
In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.
Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:
Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
answered 8 hours ago
juhistjuhist
785113
785113
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.
– vsis
7 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.
– vsis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:
- Use single shot mode
- Use Mirror Lock Up
- Have a rock solid tripod
- Use a remote shutter release
- Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds
- Release the shutter to take the shot
If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
|
show 13 more comments
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:
- Use single shot mode
- Use Mirror Lock Up
- Have a rock solid tripod
- Use a remote shutter release
- Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds
- Release the shutter to take the shot
If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
|
show 13 more comments
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:
- Use single shot mode
- Use Mirror Lock Up
- Have a rock solid tripod
- Use a remote shutter release
- Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds
- Release the shutter to take the shot
If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.
Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.
Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.
This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:
- Use single shot mode
- Use Mirror Lock Up
- Have a rock solid tripod
- Use a remote shutter release
- Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds
- Release the shutter to take the shot
If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
edited 8 hours ago
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
answered 9 hours ago
HuecoHueco
12k32857
12k32857
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
|
show 13 more comments
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.
– vsis
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.
– flolilo
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.
– Michael C
8 hours ago
1
1
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?
– Hueco
7 hours ago
|
show 13 more comments
vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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What shutter speeds are you using?
– Hueco
9 hours ago
Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.
– Gern Blanston
9 hours ago
I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.
– Michael C
8 hours ago